There's something about onsens that make all problems seem trivial. Just the prospect of a relaxing hour soaking in a steamy bath keeps me happy through traveling troubles. And so today, when I had no umbrella and the rain poured down on the shrines of Nikko, I joined the monkey statues and thought no evil. I was headed to an onsen. And when Jill accidentally threw away her rail pass and we had to go all the way back to find it, only to discover that someone had searched through the trash and returned it to the station for us, I was calm- I had just spent the afternoon at the onsen.
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