The Power of Hot Water

There's something about onsens that make all problems seem trivial. Just the prospect of a relaxing hour soaking in a steamy bath keeps me happy through traveling troubles. And so today, when I had no umbrella and the rain poured down on the shrines of Nikko, I joined the monkey statues and thought no evil. I was headed to an onsen. And when Jill accidentally threw away her rail pass and we had to go all the way back to find it, only to discover that someone had searched through the trash and returned it to the station for us, I was calm- I had just spent the afternoon at the onsen.

Something Fishy

Tsukiji is the biggest fish market in the world. There are lots of fish. The most famous are the tuna. Do you know how big a tuna fish is? It's not small.
We slept in, and by the time we got to the market at 6:30am the auction was over, but they were busy buzz sawing the frozen and cutting up the fresh tuna carcasses all over the place. We wandered around staring back at the fish eyes and learning the difference between ink squid and short fin squid.
I think that if I would have seen the fish market four years ago, back when I hated fish, I probably would have been disgusted. As I passed the chunks of tuna meat and beheaded yellowtails today, however, I found myself thinking,"It looks so delicious!" The more fish I saw, the hungrier I became. So, naturally, we stopped off at a nearby sushi restaurant for fresh breakfast.

Skin City

Tokyo is just the same as it was when I was here a couple weeks ago. The only difference is the heat and consequently the increase in scantily clad women. It seems that the foreigners have exerted more influence on fashion and social customs in Tokyo than in Kyoto. Their influx is apparent in every strapless dress and tube top. This style is far from taking over, but to compared to the elbow length gloves and floppy hats of Kyoto, it's a bit of a shock.

Riding Off to Join the Circus

The Japanese love bicycles. Some Japanese love small-wheeled bicycles. There is only one advantage of the latter, in my eyes. You can fold them up and take them on the train with you. I've seen this twice.

Disadvantages I found out this morning, when I rode one for the first time. Firstly, put me a small wheeled bike and I look like I belong in the clown act of the Ringling Brothers Circus. Secondly, because those wheels are really small, you have to pedal really fast to go anywhere. I rode this bike from my house down to Dave's house, a six minute ride on a normal bike. It took me fifteen on Bozo's transportation. I ran back home in nine.

And so, in conclusion, the students I see riding these things around are either idiots, or they're trying to get more exersize. I vote the former.

Good Times

Some days I'm lucky. Yesterday was one of them.
-The rail pass lady didn't look at my passport.
-We were two minutes late, but the train was five minutes behind.
-A foreigner-loving business man bought us beers and snacks at the baseball game.
-The drunken college guys in front of us gave us the excess popcorn they bought from the cute vendor girl.
-Nomura got his 2000th hit in our presence.
-The Hiroshima Carp beat the Yakult Swallows 5-2.

Traveling In Style

There are the cheap ways of traveling across the country, and then there's the Shinkansen(bullet train). But when you're carrying a Japan Rail Pass, the regular rules of travel don't apply. For a mere 250 dollars you can enjoy seven days ofunlimited speeding trains. Flash the card at the station guy and step on.

Technically, I'm not suppossed to have this pass since I hold a long term visa. But the ticket woman didn't look, and I didn't tell. And now my friends and I can prance across the country as the good tourists we pretend to be.

Old and New Questions

My friends are here, and as is my duty and privilege, I am taking them around to all the good places in Japan. Their presence has made me look again at Japan through fresh eyes as I try to answer questions such as these:

Why is it impolite to blow your nose in public?
What is the meaning of the incense at temples?
Why does no one wear helmets when riding bicycles?
Are Japanese women all anorexic?
What is the difference between sushi and sashimi?
Do I dip it in this, or do I dip it in that?
How much does it cost to put up a torii at Fushimi Inari?
Why do you pay for hotel rooms by the person?
What's the difference between all the green teas?
Why do the toilets have sinks attached to the back?
What's with the women in welder visors?
Why do the entire schools go on field trips together?
Why are there so many different train lines in such a small area?
Why doesn't anyone steal the bike secured with a 100 yen lock?
How can 100 yen sushi be so good?
Why the crowds on the 1800 yen seats, when you can sit on the rocks for free?

Welcome to Japan

As a rule, I don't like tourists in my country. I am generally a nice, helpful person, but when I see map reading, non-Japanese speaking, group traveling tourists on the streets of my city, I smirk and avoid. Why? I can't answer this specifically, but I believe it has something to do with the fact that most English speaking travelers feel that they can go anywhere and be just fine with their wonderful knowledge of English. I don't condone the absolute intrusion and interference into normal citizens' lives that pushy tourists bring.

This is my attitude.

However, I reserve the right to modify my attitude when my non-Japanese speaking friends come to visit. I will reconsider the points that make other foreigners odious to me. If they have a Japanese speaking guide, it's okay for them to be here. It they travel in groups of less than three, I won't rudely ring my bike bell at them to clear the sidewalk. If I hear them making a true attempt at mastering more than "please" and "thank you," I will possibly smile and not secretly despise them for their horrible accent.

Don't critisize me for this way of thinking. I am not really spiteful. But go live in a foreign country for a year, and you'll see what I mean. There are others that think the same way I do.

There Must Be Something Better

The most popular shows on Japanese television are panel shows where celebrities watch clips or do stunts and then everyone expresses their opinion. There are so many of these that they're running out of things to talk about. Case in point, a show I saw today:

A Japanese celebrity panel was commenting on a Korean celebrity panel show. They would watch the Korean clip and the Korean responses, and then talk about it. When that was over, they moved on to discuss American Reality TV clips. That's when I turned off the TV.

There are some people who refuse to watch Japanese TV because it is so ridiculously stupid, and there are those who love to watch Japanese TV because it is so ridiculously stupid. I waver back and forth. Today I am the former.

Whatever Works

The man dressed as a woman screeched at the man dressed as a warrior. He rumbled back and advanced up the stage. Left foot slide, toe lift, pat as it comes down. Right foot slide, toe lift, pat.

I imagine that tabi socks have to be particularly clean and white for Noh performances since the feet have such an active role in the play. When a Japanese person describes Noh, they will always say, "The movements are so slow and deliberate, and they raise their toes when they walk. Like this.." And you'll get an example. The feet are probably what keep most people's attention as they try not to nod off.

I was mesmerized by the drum player's eyebrows. "Yoawoooh" Eyebrows up !donk! Eyebrows down "Yoh" !donk! Eyebrows wiggle "Yawh" !dink! "Yawh" !dink! Wiggle wiggle .

June Showers

When I said the other day that the rainy season was coming, I seriously didn't think it was going to arrive so soon. After pouring all night and all day, the weather settled down this evening to the infamous Kyoto summer swelter.

Kyoto is situated in a valley, a little pocket where all the hot air gathers still and heavy. Most people avoid this city during the summer not because it is hot, but because it is unbearably humid. I can't wait until the time comes once again when I will take one step outside and immediately be soaked in a combination of the water particles in the air and my own perspiration.

But for now I am sitting in my room trying to accustom my lungs to this extra strain and trying not to think of the bugs breeding in my tatami.

First Impressions Can Be Wrong

I started getting emails about my high school's five year reunion last week. So far, fourteen people have replied. This is probably not representative of our class of 165, but I would just like to point out the fact that:

2 are engaged
6 are married
2 have a child
2 are married to each other

12 live in the midwest (Indiana, Illinios, Ohio, Wisc.)
1 lives in California
1 lives in Japan

*This is in addition to the few I have seen on the facebook.com that are also married with kids.

When I graduated from this "smart school," I was sure that a good 50% of these people would be doing amazing things in the years to come. I'm not saying that what they're doing now (living in the midwest, getting married, and having babies) is a bad thing. It's just not what I pictured.

Centipedes on Steriods

- I woke up to the sound of dogs fighting. A few of the dozen housewives who walk their dogs in the morning must have started chatting and forgotten that the toy on the end of their string was alive.

- A centipede crossed my floor while I was studying. I dropped a full box of laundry detergent on it. I came back from my shower to find that the box had moved and there was no squished bug body underneath. I hope all insects in Japan are not this strong.

- The whole country was watching just minutes ago as Japan beat North Korea in the bid to the World Cup. You've gotta love the national unity that gets the game televised without commercials.

No Warning

I can't remember if this is how it was in Indiana or Boston, but in Japan, the seasons start suddenly. For example, three days ago I was wearing long sleeves and pants. Yesterday the temperature jumped to 28 C (don't ask what it is in F cause I don't know), and it's not going back down, they say.

Tsuyu, rainy season, will start the same way. A week or so from now, the sky will turn grey and the rain will pour down without warning. I'm debating whether a 100yen poncho will keep me dry enough. Maybe I'll spend the extra money for an umbrella holder for my bike.

It's that time again

Grass makes me happy. It makes me so happy that I will do ridiculous things just because it is present.

I went down to Osaka yesterday to play pick-up ultimate (it exists in Japan!!). We played on a moderately grassy field. I was ecstatic for the green. I was crazy about the lack of sand. I was blind to the small rocks and hard ground.

I dove. I skidded. I acquired a wound the size of a saucer on my thigh.

Does it hurt? Yes. Does it ooze? Yes. Am I sorry I did it? Absolutely not. Most teams in Japan, including mine, experience a lack of contact with the ground due to their sand/dirt fields. I had been missing that wonderful body wrenching impact. Now I feel that the Ultimate season has started once again.

As is said by the best old members of the O3P, "Pain heals. Guys dig scars. Glory is forever."

See all my beautiful Tohoku pictures on my photo gallery! Everything is updated! 

Someone's Been Spying

I answered my door two minutes ago to find two Japanese Jehovah's Witnesses standing on my porch. I knew they would be coming around eventually, since a new Kingdom Hall was just built a few months ago down the street, but I wasn't expecting them this soon.

"A few fellow believers told me that there were some foreigners living in this house, so we wanted to come talk to you in English and share the positive attitude that God has given us."

I want to know who these "fellow believers" are and what they've been doing spying around my house. I want to know how they knew I was an English speaking foreigner. I want to know if there is a gossip network that talks about this house like a black spot on the perfection of the neighborhood.

How is it this easy to be singled out?

Tokyo, Part 4

Tokyo.
An unsuccessful search for a public bath (we remained smelly).
A Tour of the Diet (named after the German Parliment).
A talk by the longest serving Representative (from Aomori Pref.).
A free lunch of Subway sandwiches provided by the Fulbright Alumi Association (I ate 45cm).
A tour of the Supreme Court Building (hasn't been touched since the 70's).
A talk by a Supreme Court Justice (I apologize, sir, for falling asleep).
A nap on the grass of the Imperial Palace (the homeless guys know the best places to sleep).
A 630 yen dinner of Thai curry (things are cheaper under the train tracks).
A walk around Tokyo Station (too big for it's own good).
A night bus back to Kyoto (two seats to myself).
Kyoto.

Sendai, Part 3

The Japanese like to label and rank things. For example, there are "The Three Most Beautiful Spots in Japan." One of them is in Sendai. It is called Matsushima, which means "Pine Island(s)," and in this case, it is a bay filled with rugged piney islands. I can't agree that it is beautiful, though. Maybe a couple hundred years ago, yes. But not now when everything has been paved over and there are thousands of old people following their flag-waving tour guides.

Most places in Japan are famous for something. Sendai is famous for Cow Tongue. You can't walk ten steps without finding another restaurant that sells gyutan. So we had some for dinner, naturally. The place we went also served Ox Tails with your Cow Tongue. The tails were good, the tongue was not bad. And now I have eaten from one end of the cow to the other.

Winding Down, Part 2

We were woken by day hikers pausing for a break at our hut. We ate the last of our food, cleaned up, packed, and hiked down the mountain.

As most trips in Japan often go, we ended our hike at an onsen. We decided to go back to the one onsen that was nice to us the night before as a reward for their kindness. That was the best idea ever. It was the nicest onsen I have ever been to. And, it was my first experience in a coed onsen. The coed outdoor baths had a wonderful view of a waterfall which we admired while trying to keep our hand towels covering the appropriate parts. It was pretty funny.

After cleaning ourselves thoroughly, we headed down for lunch overlooking Lake Tazawako, the deepest lake in Japan. From there we drove to Sendai. I drove on the highway. There were no speed limit signs, so I went 130. Kmph.

The Hiking, Part 1

As usual, things started out uneventfully. The ferry ride was long, but calm. Getting the rent-a-car, buying groceries, picking up our fourth member, and driving to the Hachimantai National Park was unnmarred by complications. The first hiccup was a combination of two factors which were solved together. Firstly, we forgot to fill up our water bottles. Secondly, the road to the trailhead was blocked off. However, knocking on the door of a nearby house, we found people nice enough to let us borrow some water and tell us these important things:

1. the chain blocking the road could be moved, and we probably wouldn't get in trouble for it
2. there is a nice hut at the top of the mountain
3. the top of the mountains are still covered with snow
The first two were well noted, the third went in one ear and out the other.

The actual hiking on this first day was fairly easy. The trailhead started above the tree line, and our hike to the mountain hut was a gradually ascending winding path around to the other side of the mountain. We passed sulfur hills, poked at a dormant toad, avoided sliding down snow-covered inclines, and tread on porous stone that made up the volcanic mountains.

The hut was barely visible across a shallow lake as we and the fog arrived simultaneously at a small plateau near the top of the "Woman's Eye" Mountain. With only minimal trouble from the kerosene stove, we prepared our spaghetti dinner and s'mores for dessert. The day ended early after a few card games when the cold became unbearable and we all retreated to our warm sleeping bags.

Because our car was parked in one spot, the next day's hike was to be a loop, ending us back at the same hut for another night. We left our heavy packs and started our eight hour hike as the sun burned away the fog. We climbed up and down mountains and ridges noting the changing color of the soil: red, black, orange, yellow, brown. Our goal was "Breast/Nipple" Mountain at an elevation near 1600 meters. Other than the pause to eat lunch under an overhang when it started to rain, we reached the summit with no problems. From there, we started our descent to a valley filled with onsen (hot springs) and their accompanying resorts. We even found a natural pool along the way, but it was so incredibly hot that our little toes could only handle it for three seconds at a time.

It was four p.m when we reached the onsen valley. Consulting the map, we determined that if we went just a little faster, we could make it back to the hut just as the sun was setting. So off we went. Over the ski slopes and through the forest we went. Our first trouble came when we reached a beech grove carpeted with snow. The trail was invisible and the trees were not marked. We painstakingly followed one set of footprints coming from the opposite direction.

Our second problem occured when the trail ended halfway up the mountain in the midst of snow covered slopes. Here and there dense islands of dwarf bamboo spanned across the white. An hour later we had scrambled, slid, and pulled our way to meters from the peak in the direction toward which we were sure the trail went. But the brush was unrelenting and the sun was setting. It was cold, and we only had one headlamp between the four of us. It was tough to give up when we knew that our car was a mere thirty minutes on the other side of the mountain, but it was either turn back or be those foreigners who had to get rescued from a mountain. We slid down the snowy slopes like children who lost their sleds.

Two and a half hours later, after retracing our footprints through the beech forest, manuvering through roots and streams with only one light, we emerged at the ski slopes. We paused for an astronomy lesson by our resident astronomer. The stars were absolutely gorgeous - innumerable, bright, and enveloping. This was the last good thing of the evening.

We were rejected by three onsens. No room at the resorts. One even turned off the lights and locked the door when we left.
The nice one let us use their pay phone to call a cab. He drove us back to our car, bearing with us while we unchained the "do not pass" sign from the middle of the road for him.
It was now midnight. We drove to a convenience store for dinner. We drove around some more looking for another hotel to stay at.
We were rejected by three more.
We drove back to the parking lot where we tried to sleep in a cold, cramped car.
The sky became light at 3:15am, and the sun rose around 3:45am. We were hiking back to the hut by 4:15am.

Daily totals:
Distance: 16 miles
Hiking time: approx. 11 hours
Hours of sleep: 2-3hrs. (okay, we slept again at the hut, but...)