Raise Your Toe

Japanese traditional theatre is what most foreigners* would call boring. The form most often described in this way in Noh. Noh is known for it's repetitive music, slow and overly exaggerated movement, and simplicity (almost non-existance) of plot. To make matters worse, it is most often not performed individually, but as a set of three or four plays presented all afternoon. Luckily, some time ago, the Japanese realized that even the most enthusiastic fan needs a break from slow, seriousness. Hence, there is Kyogen. Kyogen is a form of Noh - the same style of music, the same bright costumes, and similar exaggerated dance. However, it also incorporates the comedic, and sometimes the hilarious. These satirical glimpses of Japanese religion, old court custums, and lifestyle are often inserted between the Noh plays to break up the monotony of the afternoon.

And sometimes, they are performed just by themselves. Like the most famous of kyogen styles, Mibu Kyogen, performed once a year at Mibudera Temple in Kyoto. Mibudera is famous for a lot of things, and this is just one of them. Its kyogen is particularly interesting because it has no words. None. Five one hour long plays done completely in pantomime with accompanying flute and drums, and the occasional foot stomp. And despite the lack of words and close resemblence to Noh drama, these plays are good. For example, the one that I particularly liked was about a bet between the Bodhisattva Jizo and the King of the Underworld, Yama. Jizo bet that one of his protectees, a hungry ghost, could beat one of Yama's little demon underlings in a sumo match. What followed was a hilarious stomping battle of quivering ghosts and fist-shaking demons. Who knew that wordless Noh could be so entertaining? Of course, part of the fun was just trying to figure out what the finger pointing, gesturing, and foot stomping really meant.

*Lots of Japanese find it really boring too. I don't mind it so much, but I know plenty of people who won't go again unless their life depends on it.