Saturday, April 30, 2005

The Burning Question

Why does a country that so wholeheartedly embraces public baths condemn shorts above the knees and tank tops? Their children are roasting alive in pants and turtlenecks.

Thursday, April 28, 2005

The Dating Game

Over the past six months I have been given many reasons why Japanese men do not date foreign women. Here are a few:

Japanese men think that foreign women are:
-too independent
-too tall (particularly in the case of Caucasian women)
-not skinny enough
-scary/intimidating
-too powerful

Japanese men are:
-shy
-stuck in the old fashioned "guys are better than girls" mindset
-worried about the language barrier

Non-Japanese women often complain about coming to Japan and not being able to find a date. The amusing thing is, that when one does come across that random Japanese guy who is interested in dating foreign women, he is automatically under suspicion of being one of those Japanese guys who are obsessed with dating foreign women. You can't win.

Tuesday, April 26, 2005

Safety First

As most people who watch the news probably know, there was a pretty bad train wreck here in Japan on Monday. Contrary to the early reports I read on NY Times.com, it was not in Tokyo, but in Hyogo Prefecture, just on the western side of Osaka. I had a few emails from friends asking me if I was okay, and another few wondering how such a wonderfully technologically advanced country could have such a horrible accident? Well, let me tell you. While the shuttle trains at the airport may not have drivers, all the normal trains do, and I think they're going to call this accident a result of human error. I feel bad for the driver, however. The trains here are always on time. If some idiot decides he wants to run onto the train, forcing the doors to open again, and then more people try to get on, etc, etc, the train is going to get behind schedule. And the people will get mad if the train is behind schedule. So the train driver has to make up for it. Did I mention once before that the families of suicide jumpers (onto train tracks) have to pay for all the time the train is delayed because of the accident? This is how strict this sort of thing is.

Anyway, my friend here asked me if I was okay with riding a JR train to go see a movie this week. Her mother is scared of riding trains now. I have no problem with it. I have no problem with anything having to do with safety in Japan. In fact, this is probably going to be bad some day. Japan is so safe that you can leave your groceries in your bike basket and go shopping in another store for an hour and you grocieries will still be there when you get back. Chances are, if you leave something, including your wallet, on the train someone will turn it in and you will get it back completely in tact. You can (and I have) walk home at midnight on a moderately lit street and never feel like there is anyone around that could pose any danger to you at all. Sure, every once and a while, someone gets mugged, some kid gets kidnapped, and the news makes a big deal of it. But that's because it doesn't happen at any where near the rate that it does in the US. It's big news because it is big news. My conclusion: Despite occasional train accidents and earthquakes, Japan is the safest place to live.

Monday, April 25, 2005

Wasting Time

It's the third week of school.
It's the third time I've tried to go to my Monday, 2nd period class.
It's the third time the teacher hasn't been there.
We don't have school next week.
I hope he comes the week after that, or there's gonna be no point.

Ah, the Memories

My old host family invited me over for dinner last night. We barbequed, we drank, the neighbor woman told stories about her dog, Okasan made fun of Otosan for losing his tooth eating mochi, we ate more, we drank more, Shin-chan wore himself out begging for food, the sakura tree dropped petals in our sauce, we laughed at Otosan's cooking skills, we lamented the lives of the single women, the mothers carried on in Kansai-ben, the fathers stood around with knowing smiles, we ate the leftovers, the daughters cleaned up, I served chrysanthemum tea, we snacked on warabi mochi, the neighbors left, we had coffee, Otosan went to bed, and the rest of us visitors left with extremely full stomachs.

I realized two very important things during the course of the evening.

Firstly, despite often feeling like my Japanese is horrendous, it has improved tremendously since those first few days with Okasan two years ago. They have a new host student right now whose Japanese is worse than mine was. Seeing her struggle with even the simplest of questions, her blank looks and stuttered responses, was like watching myself. I remember when the only two words I could confidently use were "wakaranai" (I don't understand) and "daijobu"(I'm/It's okay). I remember when the whole world was inhabited by people who spoke jibberish. I sat there last night listening to the neighbor woman talk at incredible speeds in the Kansai dialect, and I thought, 'No wonder Japanese is so difficult.'

Secondly, it is really great to sit around and be part of families and friends chatting and laughing and bickering and telling stories. I really missed the back and forth banter, the teasing, and the smiling. It was like sitting in on the lives of a perfect family in a friendly neighborhood. I knew that even though I didn't have my own chopsticks anymore, there was always room for me at the table.

Saturday, April 23, 2005

The Hills Are Alive

I went for a run today just north of my house with the intention of finding a temple I had once been to before. I stopped at a map that showed all of the temples of the area, and since I couldn't remember the name, I just picked the first one and headed in that direction. Soon I came upon the gate to Kurodani Temple. Not the one I was searching for, but looking at the temple guide map, I noticed that this temple had an Oku no In (a hall in the back, literally). For some reason, I am particularly drawn to temples that have Oku no In. So I went to find it. I climbed up some stairs to the Main Hall, I climbed up some more stairs to the Fudomyo Hall, and then I started hiking on a mountain trail. Up I went through lovely trees, random Buddhist statues, and big old stones, until I got to the top of the mountain. And there was the Oku no In.

I decided not to take the same way back down, so I went the other direction, and had myself a nice two hour hike along the ridge of the Eastern mountains of Kyoto. During that time, I learned all sorts of interesting things:

1. The mountains used to be volcanic. many, many, many years ago.
2. A famous man made a road on the mountain, and there's a monument to him in the forest.
3. There used to be a beautiful river flowing down from the mountain. It was called Shirakawa (White River) because in the spring the flowers along side of it would bloom all white. This is where the name of the street comes from. Sadly, the river is now a trickle. I walked in it.
4. There's a mini Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage at Kurodani Temple.
5. The trail to Mt. Hiei starts in the mountains behind my house. It's only a three hour hike. It takes that long to get there on the train!
6. Spontaneous hiking is great. I'm gonna do it again this week.

Tuesday, April 19, 2005

Sit down, Stand up, Fall over

Since olden days the Japanese have preferred a certain way of sitting on the floor during ceremonies or special occasions. It's called seiza. A translation of which would be "tremendous pain." As far as I know, there is no other country in the world that requires people to sit in this most painful of positions for extended periods of time. It is often said to be the cause of bowleggedness and knee problems. Just try it some time. See how long you can sit with your legs directly under you (not crosslegged). See how long you can do it in jeans.

It's like a highly developed form of torture. First, your blood flow is cut off past your knees. Then your toes, feet, calves, and entire legs begin to ache. Then burn. You probably won't reach the point of piercing pain, but that can happen too. The best part, however, is when you try to get up. If you've been sitting long enough, your legs have "fallen asleep." You might not realize it though, and I have seen more than one person stand up to immediately fall over because their legs don't work properly. Then, of course, there is the tingly sensation.

I've had to sit like this often lately - koto lessons, a tea ceremony, visiting a professors's house. I can usually manage about ten minutes before I have to rudely change positions. My koto teacher can go all day without a problem, and so can most other older women. But really, why couldn't the Japanese have followed their mainland neighbors and imported chairs?

Saturday, April 16, 2005

The Fun Begins

First class: Wednesday, 10:30am. I'm walking toward the classroom, when the professor steps out of his office. "Ah! Kara! (I don't know why, I have corrected him several times, but the name Laura will not come off his lips). Are you coming to class now? Don't come to this class. Are you free on Monday, second period? Come to that class. There are graduate students I want to introduce you to. We waited for you on Monday, but you didn't come. You signed up for this class? No, no, this class now is no good. Come to my class on Monday. See you then."

Second class: Wednesday, 1:00pm. The Manyoshu. There are 10 students in a room made for 60. The teacher writes a lot on the board and then begins assigning the days when we each do a report for the whole class period. Starting next week. I talk to her after class. "I'm just a research student..." "Oh yes, if there's anything you don't understand, just let me know." And she walks away. I really hope she knows I meant that I do not want to do that report.

Third class: Wednesday, 2:30pm. Intro to Kanbun. There are 30 students in a room made for 20. The teacher talks all period, and then starts making up a sign-in sheet divided into sections for year and department. He stops and looks in my direction. He stares at me a little longer and I realize he wants me to say something. "I'm a research student..." "O h. D o y o u u n d e r s t a n d J a p a n e s e?" No, I just come to class and listen to the pretty syllables and watch you waving your hands. Sheesh.

Fourth class: Friday, 9:00am. Reading old history. Do you remember that guy way back when who did commercials for MicroMachines? The guy who spoke so incredibly fast that you could just barely make out what he was saying? That's how this teacher speaks. Surprisingly, he speech is clear, so I can actually understand what he's saying for the most part. I am impressed with myself. He also uses honorifics and humblers every other sentence. When I told him I might not be capable of doing the project he answered, "I would be greatly honored if you could do me the favor of trying to do the project, but my unworthy self would understand if you do not deem to do so. Please enjoy my humble class." And he bows.

Wednesday, April 13, 2005

The Best and Brightest

Tokyo Toilet Page

You're welcome anytime!

After a long day of dealing with the hassles of starting a new school year at a Japanese university it's really nice to come home to a dinner waiting for you. That is, my housemate's mother is visiting from Taiwan, and she made dinner. I wasn't expecting it. I hadn't physically and mentally prepared for the Asian mother's kind but firm insistance on serving at least three helpings of everything. The cucumber squid dish was wonderful, the scallops and green onions were delicious, the sweet Taiwanese sausage made me want to put it on the menu at Bob Evans, and the sweet potato rice was the perfect cushion for the uni and octopus relish. And just when I thought I was going to burst, out came the Takashimaya box with joyful anko filled goodness inside. Thank you visiting mom!

One of these things is not like the others

Imagine a cafeteria that holds 200 or so students. Imagine all but a few seats are taken by noisy freshman and sophomores slurping noodles, doing their hair, talking on their cell phones, or yelling across the table at each other. Now, put me in there. I'm holding my tray, wandering around the tea dispensers scanning the tables for a seat. All of a sudden, it is stunningly clear. I see myself, and I see everyone else. Which of these things does not belong? Standing in a cafeteria does not seem foreign until you realize that you are by yourself amidst hundreds of Japanese; and suddenly you realize that you really are in a different country.

Back to School

Tomorrow is my first day of class in something like three months. I went to the library today to do some reading in mental preparation for beginning school again. I fell asleep at the desk. I have once again signed up for five classes, all of which sound immensely interesting and helpful to me, but I am sure I will find out they are useless by next week. This is okay, however, because my advisor told me I don't have to go if I don't want to. I just have to meet with him once a week and pretend like I'm doing some research. So I plan on going to some classes, not going to some others, taking some days to go hiking, taking some more days to go meditating, and spending my time in a way I like. That's what I really came here to do anyway.

Sunday, April 10, 2005

The other Hanami

Literally, hanami means looking at flowers. But if you ask someone if they've gone to any hanami lately, they probably aren't just talking about gazing at blossoms. What's being referred to here is a party. It starts early, when someone takes their tarp and stakes out a nice place under a sakura tree. People beginning gathering around noon, or two, or five, and the all day party begins. Bentos abound, the sake and beer flow freely, and no one pays much attention to the flowers.

Because hanami season is also the beginning of the school year, and hence club recruiting season, most clubs invite prospective members to hanami to meet the members. It's a more relaxed was of joining the group. My friend was looking into a few clubs - he went to five hanami. My frisbee team has their's today, which is where I'll be heading in an hour or so. Unfortunately, I can't party til the sun goes down today. I have to go watch Asashoryu beat some more of his sumo friends in a special match down in Osaka.

Friday, April 08, 2005

Hanami

Spring in Japan is filled with lots of hanami, looking at flowers.
Here are a few I've seen recently.

Momo no hana - Peach blossoms Posted by Hello

Sakura - Cherry blossoms Posted by Hello

Sakura - Cherry blossoms Posted by Hello

Tsubaki - Camelia Posted by Hello

Ume no hana - Plum blossoms Posted by Hello

Wednesday, April 06, 2005

Beef, it's what's for dinner

I had the famous Kobe steak today for lunch. I had always said I would never pay money for pampered cow, but peer pressure and the craving for beef with more taste than cardboard won over. My friend from Hokkaido instigated it. The rest of us followed him in, gazing uncertainly at the prices on the menu displayed just outside the restaurant door. Luckily, we came for lunch, which reduced our payment by half. I ordered the least expensive set - 120g of filet cut Kobe beef, served with soup, salad, veggies, and a tiny dessert. 4,780 yen. Approximately $50.

The meat was cooked in front of us on a tabletop skillet, the chef taking tender care of each piece. It was cut with precision into small morsels, turned and arranged by his sharp eyes and quick hands, and grilled to perfection. We were instructed in the way to bring out the best of the flavor - a pinch of salt, a speckling of freshly ground pepper, and a light dip into miso and lemon sauce. Delicious.

Would I say this was the best beef I have ever eaten? Probably.
Would I pay for it again? Probably not.

Monday, April 04, 2005

Pick me, pick me!

The Japanese school year runs from April to February. And so, this week marks the beginning of the new school year. Kyoto is a city of universities, much like Boston, and this is particularly evident around graduation and nyugakushiki. At graduation, there are young men in suits and young women in kimono everywhere. During "incoming student ceremony" time, everyone is wearing a suit, and they are soon laden with huge unnecessary course listing books, sheets and sheets of club brochures, and student planners.

Otani's ceremony was today, and it was the busiest I have ever seen the campus. The sidewalks leading to the entrance/exit were lined with club and circle representatives just waiting to handout as many flyers as possible to the unsuspecting freshmen. My frisbee team decided to expand their recruitment this year, and so we joined the throng to hand out "Play Ultimate" flyers. I wondered if this was really effective, since by the time they got to the end most students were barely able to hold on to their haphazard pile of propoganda. But I was assured that at least four of the current freshman on my team had been drawn to frisbee in this way, so I guess it's not as ridiculous as I supposed.

Does the music make the man?

My housemate moved out. He left me his desk and his stereo.
Try to guess his character by the MD and CD he left in the stereo:
-Bob Marley
-Moods, vol. 3
Yeah, I couldn't figure him out either.

Saturday, April 02, 2005

Flowers and Food

There's nothing like a hungry friend to get you to visit all those random restaurants that you always wanted to go to. So today I toured Kyoto with two purposes in mind. Firstly, to see if the sakura were blooming. Secondly, to eat as much as possible. These are the results

We found out that the sakura were not blooming at:
The Philosopher's Path
Nanzenji
Heian Shrine

We also found out that:
Pastel has the best pudding in Japan.
Onigiri-san makes onigiri with fried chicken, tuna salad, grilled beef, natto, and salmon.
Moan no longer serves apple scones.
The ramen at Tonryu is actually worth the wait in line.
Store 99 has macha shu-creams.

Friday, April 01, 2005

Memories of the Old Days

I was coasting along through the sunny countryside of Asuka when the wind blew my hat from my head. I instinctively reached up to grab it with my left hand while braking with my right. The brake stuck, and while the front wheel clung to the asphalt, I flew over the handlebars and landed splat in the middle of the warm road. I think I may have learned something about taking headfirst dives in frisbee, though, because I came down with my head away from the ground and my knees and hands only slightly skinned. The hole in my sleeve and the skid marks down the front of my shirt look just like I'd been playing ultimate. I think I fared pretty well for the first time falling off of a bike since I was in grade school.

So yesterday I went down to Asuka, the area of the first official capitals in Japan. My friend and I saw old burial tombs, some made out big rocks. One was called Ishibutai, the Stone Stage, because it was made with large slabs of rocks. We toured the rolling countryside on our rent-a-bikes, pausing at the mysterious carved stones scattered throughout the plain- monkeys, turtles, the orgres toilet, and two-faced stones that no one knows the origins of. We ate the sweetest strawberries I have ever eaten, freshly picked from the greenhouse. Stopping in at a few temples, we admired the sites of the first Buddhist temple built in Japan, and the birthplace of Shotoku Taishi, early Japan's greatest encourager of Buddhism. Sadly, we were two or three days early for the cherry blossoms (my friend is an ecologist, he can tell these things), but the landscape was dotted with yellow, pink, and white flowers of all varieties. It was a lovely, leisurely day in old Yamato.

No thanks, I'll wait

I looked out the window this morning to see what the weather was like, and there was a car parked outside my house with a woman sitting in it. I though nothing much of it. An hour later, when I went downstairs to eat breakfast, she was still there. Thirty minutes later I went to leave, and was unlocking my bicycle when I heard a "Sumimasen.." She asked if my housemate was at home. Judging by the presence of his motorcycle, but the fact that I had not seen him, I told her that he was probably at home, but asleep. She said thank you, I'll give him a call. And she got back in her car. I wonder what my housemate has done to warrant a stalker.